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Disembarkation is as easy as can be. The only thing that goes poorly all morning is that Teddy wants to take picture of some of his friends but we only track down one (Kaveh). There’s another kid, Drayson, that Teddy’s hoping to find, but it doesn’t pan out and he’s pretty upset. He does eventually rally. As far as every other aspect of getting off the ship, it goes absurdly well.  At baggage claim, our bags are right there and easy to find, then apparently it’s You Don’t Need To Pass Customs Day in Italy because we just waltz straight from International Waters onto land totally unimpeded. And then even though we’re off the ship 30 minutes earlier than expected, the shuttle we arranged is already waiting for us. Our driver is a middle-aged woman who is lovely but also chatty AF, and poor Nonna volunteers to sit up front with her. By the end of the hour-long drive from Civitavecchia to Rome, Nonna manages to squeeze in about four words. (And these words are si, si, preggo, and si.)

We’re staying at the Hotel Condotti, where Sarah’s parents had stayed last time they were in Rome. (And which they’ve decided to pay for entirely, because they’re wonderful, ridiculous people). We get to leave out bags but the rooms aren’t ready for a few more hours. We stroll over the Spanish Steps, which are only two minutes away, and there we try to recreate a photo of Sarah and Teddy taken here nine years ago. The two main differences you’d notice if you compare both photos are:

  • The steps are overrun with people in the new photo where they were practically empty in the last one. 
  • Unlike the last one, the new photo heavily features a photobombing Susannah holding a slap bracelet aloft as if that’s what we were all really here to photograph.

From there, we walk to the Borghese Gardens, which is a very large public park (who knew these even existed in Rome?) Our kids have started to become pains at this point, for reasons that are alternately valid and absurd (valid: they’ve gone from the structure and familiarity of the ship to flittering around Rome with no real goal or agenda; absurb: Teddy wants to go back to the hotel and see what Netflix in Italy is like.) We come across a really sad looking merry-go-round and the girls decide they absolutely have to ride it. Nonna puts down three euros for three rides and even though Teddy doesn’t want to go on it, we make him, and he sits on a horse looking like he’s in a prison camp for the length of the ride.

We go back to the hotel and get access to our rooms. They’re huge (not just by European standards but especially by European standards.) Sarah’s parents have their own room on the third floor, where we have adjoining rooms on the second floor. It’s perfect for us. There’s just a big sliding door separating both rooms, so all the kids can be in one together. It also has a cute little balcony. The kids explored Netflix and we check out Italian TV: is short, you can watch tennis and the TV show Psych at any day and any time. Sarah’s parents discover that they have a neighbour who likes to blast music at top volume.

We have gelato at Venchi, which is about 40 steps from the hotel. Then we take a walk to see some churches. For the life of me, I cannot remember the name of the first and I have no photographs of the exterior, but I did very meticulously photograph a statue of a totally swole Jesus that was inside. This was like does-crossfit-when-he’s-not-too-busy-being-a-Lumberjack Jesus. The second church was Sanit Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso (visited with no specific purpose but just because we stumbled across it.) Then we took a detour into the Pantheon where we could not really impress the age of the building upon our kids. Me: This temple is nearly two thousand years old! You’ve never seen anything this old in your life! Veronica: I’ve seen two thousand year-old buildings. Me: Where? Veronica: In Ottawa. Me: Where in Ottawa? Veronica: … in… Ottawa. The last church was St. Maria Sopra Minerva, which is where St. Catherine of Sienna is buried. The girls are in Little Flowers (a Catholic girls’ club) and Catherine of Sienna is the Little Flower, the saint the club is named after—so this was a must-see on our list. St. Catherine is buried under the altar and the kids were able to see it reasonably close up. Bonus was a super intense choir practicing while we were there. About twenty choral singers, full orchestra, lead soprano. Cinematically intense.  

Dinner was at Café Dore. If was a Friday in Lent, so meat was off the menu, which resulted in so much bellyaching from the children. But soon enough, they all had bellies full of spaghetti and it was totally good. And having walked many, many, many steps on cobblestones all day, we were all footsore and went to bed readily soon after.

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